Pokey
stranger
Reged: 26/11/2008
Posts: 6
Loc: Haverfordwest, Wales
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Hi all,
I'm going to change the oil and filter in my Kawasaki ZX6R 'Y' reg. What grade oil should I use and what make would be the best to throw in?
Thanks in advance!
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Try not to let your mind wander...It is too small and fragile to be out by itself
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makka
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 13/05/2007
Posts: 2866
Loc: Jungle, Near Byron Bay, Austra...
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Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
The dreaded oil thread rears it's ugly head.
There must be 10,000,000,000,000 oil threads on the internet.
Why don't you do a little research and answer your own question?
Or alternatively just go down the shop where you are going to buy the stuff and ask them. Like all normal folk do.
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makka
It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.
J. Krishnamurti
Never confuse who you are with what you do.
Makka
Zeitgeist
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ninja_niner
journeyman
Reged: 16/01/2009
Posts: 50
Loc: Poo Creek, looking for paddle....
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That's probably the standard 10W/40 as per my previous 1994 ZZR600, my mates' 1997 ZX-6R and my current 2000 ZX-9R.
I'm using the Fuchs Silkolene Semi-synthetic and have always used semi-synthetic. Don't use fully synthetic unless you have the right clutch plates...
... don't use car engine oil like a mate of mine did 'cos it buggers up the clutch plates... 
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It's not the speed, it's the idiot coming the other way that gets ya!
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chappers
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 31/12/2006
Posts: 6701
Loc: Mind your own business
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Yep I aways use Silkolene.
Oilman where are you.
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Say what you think and think what you say.
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Pokey
stranger
Reged: 26/11/2008
Posts: 6
Loc: Haverfordwest, Wales
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Quote:
I am honored that you took the time to read and reply to my post, and not even answer the question..... like normal folk do.
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Try not to let your mind wander...It is too small and fragile to be out by itself
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Biggles
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 05/05/2007
Posts: 3089
Loc: Orion arm of the milky way
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Pokey, you caught Makka just prior to his sedative morning cuppa of tea. He doesn't normally bite heads off with so little provocation.
Waiting a reply from OilMan is like ringing a plumber on Christmas day, so until he rises from his sump here goes:
What you want is oil that is a viscosity (thickness range) of 10-40. It should have an API (American Petroleum Institute) rating SH or SJ and or a JASO (Japaneses Auto Standard Organisation) rating MA. Most bike shops will have this (you can use or SF - SG but this is lower quality).
If you want to be nice to your bike you could select some semi synthetic rather than plain mineral. It is often recommended not to switch/mix brands so that you get be optimum performance.
If you are not sure what is in the bike at the moment, it would be prudent to change the oil filter as well (because there is quite a bit of the old oil left in the filter). This type of oil change needs a bit more oil.
When you change your oil, warm the bike up a bit first, switch off and let oil out while it is warm or if you are brave, hot as this ensures all the crap comes out with the oil. The manuals will tell you to let it cool down before a change-race teams and dynos do it hot. Wear gloves to avoid being burnt. Be careful, hot oil is hotter than boiling water.
Best not go to for fully synthetic as many folk report slipping clutches as a long term result.
Or you could do as Makka suggest and ask at your local dealers 
BTW Do not use oil that has an API rating of SH or higher that *also* has "Energy Conserving" in the API doughnut shaped rating logo for the same reasons as fully synthetic.
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Quote me as saying I was miss-quoted.
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BigHam
veteran
Reged: 12/11/2006
Posts: 1420
Loc: Letchworth, UK
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Quote:
Best not go to for fully synthetic as many folk report slipping clutches as a long term result.
Won't hurt most newer bikes, say 2000 onwards, most clutch slip reported it from people using fully snythetic car oils, however I know it does happen on some older engine designs.
The thing is unless you're racing using fully synth makes no difference anyway.
I would say it's more important to do regular changes rather than shelling out on super expensive oil. Halfords own brand changed every 2k miles would be better for your engine than castrol fully synth that only gets changed once every 8k.
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Where there's a will and Gaffa Tape there's a way!
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Biggles
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 05/05/2007
Posts: 3089
Loc: Orion arm of the milky way
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Quote:
Quote:
Best not go to for fully synthetic as many folk report slipping clutches as a long term result.
Won't hurt most newer bikes, say 2000 onwards, most clutch slip reported it from people using fully snythetic car oils, however I know it does happen on some older engine designs.
Woah!
Check with some dealers and they paint a very different story. For instance Infinity in Clapham ( a bike shop for over 30 years) say that all the R1's and gixxers etc that they have had in with slipping clutches have been running fully synth on the road. Very similar story down at P&H (who are huge). If you get dealers saying don't use it unless you race (and lets be honest they would make more money selling the really expensive stuff), then I for one would listen.
I think it is a mute point about cheap v expensive, for two reasons.
Firstly, most wear happens on a cold engine, the better the oil from the get go the less this will happen.
Secondly I totally agree about regular changes - I never wait 5,000 miles as my book says but change every 2000-2500. But even then my (admitedly cosseted) motor gets the good stuff every time.
The wear rates must be faster using mineral even over short periods, otherwise when running-in manufacturers would not suggest using *only* mineral because it aids bedding in the parts and then switching to semi synth *afterwards*.
When it comes down to it, money and convenience must be a big factor. For sure you will not ruin a bike running on mineral only. I am going to stop now as I can hear Makka snoring from here
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Quote me as saying I was miss-quoted.
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Pokey
stranger
Reged: 26/11/2008
Posts: 6
Loc: Haverfordwest, Wales
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Thanks for the advice, nice to see some usefull responses  Want to make sure what I put in won't wreck the engine!
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Try not to let your mind wander...It is too small and fragile to be out by itself
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makka
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 13/05/2007
Posts: 2866
Loc: Jungle, Near Byron Bay, Austra...
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Have we repeated ourselves and 10,000,000 other people enough yet?
Nothing personal pokey.
I just personally find oil threads dead boring as I've read it all a hundred times before. And that's just this one forum.
And I have to compulsively read everything on here just in case one of the regulars tries to get away with something that I should be giving them a hard time about.
And my last excuse.
I've done my back in trying to pick up one of them big old tv's 'cos my bloody girlfriend wants to shift her room around and I'm a/ in agony, and b/ on my back in bed.
And I'm grumpy enough even without those two. 
Thank Dog for laptops and lapdancers.
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makka
It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.
J. Krishnamurti
Never confuse who you are with what you do.
Makka
Zeitgeist
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Pokey
stranger
Reged: 26/11/2008
Posts: 6
Loc: Haverfordwest, Wales
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Know what you mean about moving things around, my girl friend is jus the same, so I'll forgive the grumpy response!
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Try not to let your mind wander...It is too small and fragile to be out by itself
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Biggles
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 05/05/2007
Posts: 3089
Loc: Orion arm of the milky way
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I think in this case it would be right to blame the crap mechanics of the Forum as your question has been answered here several times but for some reason the tech pags are limited, so if you had searched, you would have not found the olde answers.
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Quote me as saying I was miss-quoted.
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chappers
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 31/12/2006
Posts: 6701
Loc: Mind your own business
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Quote:
Hi all,
I'm going to change the oil and filter in my Kawasaki ZX6R 'Y' reg. What grade oil should I use and what make would be the best to throw in?
Thanks in advance!
I recomend Olive.
just watch out for popeye.
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Say what you think and think what you say.
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Biggles
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 05/05/2007
Posts: 3089
Loc: Orion arm of the milky way
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Sorry to here about the back.
If it is the small of your back, then there is a large chance that the muscles have gone into spasm.
This probably is not wise to suggest long distance, but I know a really good set of release pressure points you could get your misses to try.
If you lie on your side, bottom leg straight, top leg bent at the knee with the knee resting on the deck.
Get the Mrs to find your lowest rib then follow it round and find a spot about two fingers width away from the spine. Press just above here (ie not on he rib) with enough pressure to send her nail white. If she finds the right spot it will hurt like fuck with a radiating pain for about a minute but then subside.
Do he same on the other side. If successful for a while you should feel less or no pain than before. Time then to have a hot bath to keep the muscles in relaxed mode.
BTW you will probably find that sitting will make it worse, try only standing or lying down. Or if you have to sit, make sure your lower back arches forward toward your belly.
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Quote me as saying I was miss-quoted.
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makka
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 13/05/2007
Posts: 2866
Loc: Jungle, Near Byron Bay, Austra...
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Ta Mr. B
I will deffo get the misses to give that a go.
It was a muscle spasm and is already much better, but still hurts.
A nice bath is a good idea too.
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makka
It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.
J. Krishnamurti
Never confuse who you are with what you do.
Makka
Zeitgeist
|
TheDuke
stranger
Reged: 15/08/2008
Posts: 11
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Pretty much any 10-40 motorbike specific oil from a brand you've heard of should do.
Be wary of supermarket or other cheapo oils which claim to meet the criteria for certain standards but haven't actually been tested. The packaging should make this clear.
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