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gouldie13
enthusiast


Reged: 13/05/2007
Posts: 250
Loc: norfolk
top yoke conversion
      #41120 - 08/04/2009 21:15

my recently purchased trx currently has a bandit 400 fairing on, and looks like so:. now dont get me wrong i think it looks good, its just not my style. so i want to convert the bike into a naked one. i already have the headlight, and relevant mounts, but im stuck on what to do with the top yoke. i want (read need) to convert from clipons to bars/risers but im not sure about how to do it. i cant really justify the £150-£200 for a lsl yoke or the likes, but i have seen a company sell something like these: bar clamps. apparently you just need to (carefully) drill the holes in the standard yoke and away you go. do you reckon this is safe? . ive also heard about mounts that clamp round the fork legs letting you use bars, but again i cant find them for love nor (little) money. anyone know where to find them?
any help is appreciated, cheers


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chappers
Carpal \'Tunnel


Reged: 31/12/2006
Posts: 6701
Loc: Mind your own business
Re: top yoke conversion [Re: gouldie13]
      #41122 - 08/04/2009 21:59

I can't see as you would have a problem if you do the job right, you'll have to check the underside of the top yoke as many are cast and may be thin with ribs on the underside.
Also check cable and lines are long enough.

--------------------
Say what you think and think what you say.


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Biggles
Carpal \'Tunnel


Reged: 05/05/2007
Posts: 3089
Loc: Orion arm of the milky way
Re: top yoke conversion [Re: chappers]
      #41134 - 09/04/2009 10:34

mmm...
these cost "from £15.28" to a worrying £435
might be worth emailing a request before you get your Black and Decker out.

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Quote me as saying I was miss-quoted.


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thetony
member


Reged: 12/02/2009
Posts: 164
Re: top yoke conversion [Re: gouldie13]
      #41163 - 09/04/2009 16:32

The clamps on ebay...Surely the have to have a 'type aproval 'ref number or kitemark or something/whatever they call it nowsadays? SINGLE 10mm ZINC PLATED bolts? I'd get them blessed by yer priest/minister/rabbi just incase...

Do yer homework yamahawise; I'd rekon another Yam's top yoke might fit/could be adapted easily. Surely the beauty of the TRX was the value of it's 'parts bin spesh'ness'. Compare fork diameter/tyre size as a (very)basic starting point then get over to a few breakers with a set of verniers and a steel rule and a few hours spare...Maybe check all the XJ- series out/various fazers/thats all that comes to mind right now. I'd also grab a copy of a streetfighter/random custom mag and phone the beardies in the advert section to get them on the case, Slab yokes and one off double/triple clamps are an easy one for these 'innovators', they'll be full of ideas and experience.

If the cheap riser adaptors had TWO BOLTS PER SIDE there wouldn't be such a question of their strength. If the materials used were not dipped in a shite coating to cover the budget metal they are inevitably thrown together with...are you getting my point? Save cash on something else, you are talking about a fundamental (!!THE MOST!!)area of vehicle control here...FFS!

What's the worst case scenario? You plug the freshly drilled (empty?) holes in the yoke with your ball-flesh at high speed when you end up imbedding the rudderless TRX into the last immovable object you ever get to see!? Scary thought. Please be carefull with this one, there is an easy way to avoid even the paranoia, It'll just cost you a bit more. I think the wee bandit fairing is very mad max, I'd paint the thing silver and stick an ariel on it...remember whaat happened to the goose!


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konceppt
newbie


Reged: 29/12/2007
Posts: 46
Loc: essex/london
Re: top yoke conversion [Re: thetony]
      #41529 - 21/04/2009 20:33

i did this on a 1999 r6 that i built as a fighter/stunter.
i just bought a set of handlebar risers from eba for about 15 quid i think.Then a set of retnthal bars and got the drill out.As chappers said before make sure you chck where the holes will be made on the underside of the top yoke because of ribs etc.i just took an angle grinder to the areas that were fouled by the bolts.I had to remove one lug off the ignition as well because one bolt needed to go where the ignition bolts sat.got some pics somewhere.........






hardest bit is rerouting the cables and brake lines


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