Siza
journeyman
Reged: 11/03/2007
Posts: 85
Loc: Pembrokeshire, Wales
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I am trying to find the Min and Max level on the Coolent reservoir but can't see either marking. There are two lines where the tank is screwed to the frame. Are these the lines? The manual isn't much help!
I have a F1 error light and am wondering if it is the coolent level?!?
Anyone got any ideas - I think I may have to bring it to a dealer for a diag but thought I would check the coolent first!
I'll try and post a picture tomorrow :-)
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BigHam
veteran
Reged: 12/11/2006
Posts: 1420
Loc: Letchworth, UK
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No the FI light won't be the coolant.
Provided the bike isn't running hotter than normal then chances are the coolant is fine.
I would take your bike to the dealer to see what the FI light's about though.
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Where there's a will and Gaffa Tape there's a way!
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Siza
journeyman
Reged: 11/03/2007
Posts: 85
Loc: Pembrokeshire, Wales
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This picture isn't the clearest but do the groves where the tank fixes to the bike indicate the min and max levels - I can't see any other markings?
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chappers
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 31/12/2006
Posts: 6701
Loc: Mind your own business
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The coolant levels will be on the
plastic header tank.
As BH stated it won't be your coolant level causing the error light although it may be a siezed valve in the exhaust, an issue that both Biggles and monkiboi have suffered from IIRC.
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Say what you think and think what you say.
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monkiboi
old hand
Reged: 11/11/2006
Posts: 1080
Loc: Tattooine
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More than likely the exhaust valve.
Whip off the fairing and on the right of the exhaust there is a valve controlled by 2 cables. Turn on the ignition and the valve should move freely in one direction then back again. If it doesn't it's probably seized. Get it to a dealer before the warranty runs out. I believe a new set of headers is about a grand  Or theres always that lovely Yshio/ Arrow/ Akrapovic (delete as appropriate) that you've been wanting 
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Zen teachings:
A closed mouth gathers no foot.
Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me for the path is narrow. In fact, just piss off and leave me alone.
There are two excellent theories for arguing with women. Neither one works.
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Biggles
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 05/05/2007
Posts: 3089
Loc: Orion arm of the milky way
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Could be coolant, but you should be having the fan on and the temp reading over 100.
You can summon up the exact F code (it is called "dealer mode" by connecting two wires under the seat (on my 1000 at least). I don't have the diagram to hand but could dig it up. There is a small white connector that has a rubber cap on over end and does not plug into anything-you connect two of the pins on that connector. Then switch on and you will get the exact F code which can be interpreted as follows:
These are what the codes mean:
C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (may not be on all models of course)
As said above it could well be the exhaust valve (alot of them start to stick after 8,000 miles) not returning to it's correct position or moving at all.
There is a nut on the top of the valve and if you get a spanner on it you should be able to move the valve a little bit-try that, if you move it and then switch on and no F1 light then it was the exhaust valve.
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Quote me as saying I was miss-quoted.
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monkiboi
old hand
Reged: 11/11/2006
Posts: 1080
Loc: Tattooine
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Thats handy Biggles. I wonder if it's the same for my 600?
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Zen teachings:
A closed mouth gathers no foot.
Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me for the path is narrow. In fact, just piss off and leave me alone.
There are two excellent theories for arguing with women. Neither one works.
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Biggles
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 05/05/2007
Posts: 3089
Loc: Orion arm of the milky way
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Been busy lately, I will post a screen grab of the 1000 workshop manual that has the full list soon - and yes I think the codes are the same.
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Quote me as saying I was miss-quoted.
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Biggles
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 05/05/2007
Posts: 3089
Loc: Orion arm of the milky way
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Here is the full list from the workshop manual:
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Quote me as saying I was miss-quoted.
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Siza
journeyman
Reged: 11/03/2007
Posts: 85
Loc: Pembrokeshire, Wales
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Thanks for all the info guys. It turned out to be the exhaust valve - having lubed the cables the FI light went off and hasn't come back on. I'll keep an eye for couple of weeks. I'm not sure the garage I bought it off will replace the motor if its not showing up as an error. Does the bike record previous issues so they could see it been an issue?
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Biggles
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 05/05/2007
Posts: 3089
Loc: Orion arm of the milky way
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Yes, recently the whole range has issues with the exhaust valve siezing up. It would seem for some reason more common on 750 and 1000's. Many valves have been replaced free under warranty-but expect some resistance as it is an expensive part-it is integrated into the titanium down tubes. So when I got mine I also got a brand new set of pipes at the front.
There is a solenoid that drives the valve too - this is cheaper to replace and over here at least does not seem to be the cause of the prob (unlike on the fireblade that has plastic gears that mash up when it jams).
If you look at the bike on the side stand you will see the valve bearing is at the lowest point so I reckon it collects condensation and eventually rusts.
If only Suzuki made it so you could take it apart, but it is a pressure fit and welded in.
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Quote me as saying I was miss-quoted.
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Biggles
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 05/05/2007
Posts: 3089
Loc: Orion arm of the milky way
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Ooops forgot I was going to post this. some what after the event but might be useful to someone else.
Here is a pic of the connector that sits under the seat (it has a rubber shield over it normally with nothing plugged into it).
You need to connect the two wires that sit at one end of the connector, a paper clip will do.
The red and white wire and the black and white wire. This will put the bike into dealer mode and you can see the exact error code (listed above).
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Quote me as saying I was miss-quoted.
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